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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their modest place achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.